Thebu Kola Sambola (Costus speciosus Leaf Sambol)

Thebu kola sambola is a raw Sri Lankan sambol made from the leaves of thebu (තෙබු), the plant known to botanists as Costus speciosus (now also classified as Cheilocostus speciosus or Hellenia speciosa) and in English as crepe ginger. The leaves are shredded very finely and mixed by hand with freshly grated coconut, shallots, green chilli, lime juice and salt, in the same way as the better-known gotu kola sambol.

Thebu is a tall, leafy plant with spirally arranged leaves and white, crinkled flowers, and it grows easily in Sri Lankan home gardens; the leaves are also sold in small bundles at markets. The sambola has a fresh, grassy taste with a faint gingery note and a mild bitterness that the coconut and lime soften. It is eaten as a side dish with rice and curry.

What does thebu taste like?

Raw thebu leaves are crisp and green-tasting, with a faint gingery edge and a light bitterness. If you enjoy gotu kola sambol you will find the flavour familiar. The bitterness grows the more the leaves are bruised, which is why cooks slice them very finely with a sharp knife and mix the sambola gently and at the last minute. When buying or picking thebu, choose young, bright green leaves without yellow patches or torn edges; they are more tender, easier to slice thinly and give a fresher-tasting sambola.

What else is thebu cooked as?

Besides the raw sambola, thebu leaves are made into a mallung, the Sri Lankan dish of shredded greens lightly cooked with coconut. The shredded leaves are mixed with grated coconut, salt and a small pinch of turmeric, then tossed in a dry pan over a medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, just until they wilt and turn bright green. A little sliced shallot and green chilli can be added, and some cooks finish it with a squeeze of lime. Like the sambola, it is eaten with rice.

What are the common variations?

• With Maldive fish. A tablespoon of Maldive fish flakes, moistened first with the lime juice, adds a savoury, smoky note. Leave it out for a vegan sambola.
• With a different citrus. Some households use the juice of a sour local orange instead of lime.
• With more heat. Add a third green chilli, or a pinch of crushed black pepper.

What do you serve it with?

Serve thebu kola sambola as one of the side dishes in a rice and curry meal, alongside dhal curry, a fish or vegetable curry and perhaps pol sambol. Its fresh, sharp flavour is a good contrast to richer curries made with coconut milk. It also goes well with red or white rice on its own with a simple curry.

How do you store it?

Thebu kola sambola is best eaten within an hour of mixing, as the lime softens the leaves and the coconut quickly loses its freshness. If you want to prepare ahead, keep the washed, shredded leaves in a covered container in the fridge for a few hours and mix in the coconut, shallots, chillies, salt and lime just before serving. Whole, unwashed leaves keep for 2 to 3 days in the fridge wrapped in a damp cloth or paper towel.