Musket (මස්කට්), also spelt muscat, is a firm, glossy Sri Lankan sweet in the halwa family. It is made by washing plain flour to draw off a milky starch, then stirring that starch with coconut milk and sugar over a low heat until the mixture thickens into a heavy, shining mass. Set in a tray and cut into diamonds or squares, it has a smooth, slightly chewy bite, flavoured with cardamom and rose water and studded with cashew nuts.
Musket is sold by sweet shops across the island in plain, cashew and butter versions, and is made at home for festivals, celebrations and gifts. Because it needs long, patient stirring, it is usually made in a large batch and shared.
How to make musket
- Makes about 25 pieces
- Prep: 20 minutes (+ 4 hours soaking, 4 hours setting)
- Cook: 1 hour 30 minutes
- Difficulty: Moderate
For the starch milk
- 125 g plain (all-purpose) flour
- 750 ml water
For the musket
- 800 ml coconut milk (two 400 ml tins, or thick and thin milk from 1 large coconut)
- 400 g white sugar
- 1 pinch salt
- 60 ml coconut oil, plus extra for greasing
- 50 g cashew nuts, halved
- 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
- 2 tbsp rose water
- 1 to 2 drops food colouring (optional)
Method
- Make the dough. Mix the flour with about 100 ml of the water and knead for 3 to 4 minutes into a smooth, firm ball. Warm water makes this easier.
- Soak. Put the dough in a bowl, pour over the remaining water so it is fully covered, and leave it for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
- Wash out the starch. Squeeze and rub the dough in the soaking water until the water turns thick and milky and a rubbery lump of gluten is left in your hand. Discard the gluten and pour the starch milk through a fine sieve or muslin.
- Combine. Pour the starch milk, coconut milk, sugar and salt into a large, heavy-based pan and stir until the sugar dissolves.
- Cook and stir. Cook over a medium-low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the base, for about 30 minutes, until the mixture starts to thicken. Add the coconut oil and keep stirring.
- Thicken. Continue for another 45 minutes or so, lowering the heat as it thickens, until it turns glossy and translucent and becomes heavy to stir.
- Flavour. Stir in the cashew nuts, cardamom, rose water and colouring, if using, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes more, until the mass leaves the sides of the pan cleanly, follows the spoon in one piece and oil begins to glisten at the edges.
- Set. Spread it at once into a greased 20 cm square tin, about 2 cm deep, and smooth the top with an oiled spatula. Leave undisturbed for at least 4 hours, until firm.
- Cut. Turn it out and slice into squares or diamonds with an oiled knife.
Why wash the flour?
Soaking and kneading the dough in water separates the gluten, which clumps together, from the starch, which floats off into the water. The starch milk sets the musket smoothly without the stretchy, doughy texture that whole flour would give. Some cooks, particularly in the South Indian versions, make the same starch milk by soaking cracked wheat overnight and grinding it with water before straining.
How do you know when musket is done?
Watch for three signs together: the mixture pulls away from the sides and base of the pan as one mass, it follows the spoon as you stir, and a little oil seeps out around the edges. If it is taken off too early, it stays soft and will not slice cleanly; if it is cooked much longer, it becomes tough. Keep the heat low for the final stage, as the thick mixture catches easily.
How is musket related to muscoth halwa?
In southern Tamil Nadu a very similar sweet of wheat milk, coconut milk and sugar is sold as muscat or muscoth halwa. Cooks and food writers there generally describe it as a recipe that came from Sri Lanka in the twentieth century, brought back by traders from Tirunelveli district. The two share the same method; Indian versions sometimes add caramelised sugar for a darker colour.
What variations are there?
- Butter musket: butter or ghee replaces some or all of the coconut oil, for a richer taste.
- Nut musket: a larger quantity of cashew nuts is stirred through, and sometimes raisins.
- Coloured musket: shops often tint it pink, green or yellow; at home the colour is optional.
Musket belongs with other slow-stirred Sri Lankan sweets such as kalu dodol, which is cooked from rice flour, coconut milk and jaggery in a similar way.
How long does musket keep?
Covered at cool room temperature, homemade musket keeps for 2 to 3 days; in the fridge it lasts about a week. In hot, humid weather keep it chilled, and bring it back to room temperature before serving. It sits well on a festive plate with kokis and other Sri Lankan sweets.
