Among the layered ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, the remains of King Nissanka Malla's Palace stand as a testament to one of Sri Lanka's most ambitious medieval rulers. Built during the late 12th century, the palace complex sits within the Royal Palace precinct and offers visitors a rare glimpse into the ceremonial life of a Polonnaruwa king — even in its ruined state.
Who was King Nissanka Malla?
Nissanka Malla — also known as Kirti Nissanka and Kalinga Lokesvara — ruled the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa from 1187 to 1196 CE. Originally from Kalinga in eastern India, he was one of the most prolific builders in Sri Lankan royal history. During his nine-year reign he commissioned an extraordinary range of religious and royal structures, including the Nissanka Lata Mandapaya, the Hatadage relic shrine, and the Rankot Vihara dagoba — the largest stupa built at Polonnaruwa.
Nissanka Malla was also known for his stone inscriptions, which record his achievements and royal proclamations in considerable detail. He explicitly declared that only Buddhists could rule Sri Lanka, a stance that reinforced the close relationship between the Sinhalese crown and Theravada Buddhism throughout the Polonnaruwa period.
What remains of the palace today?
The palace ruins consist primarily of thick brick walls that once supported a multi-storey royal residence. Ancient chronicles suggest the structure rose to seven storeys, though today only the lower courses of masonry survive. The footprint of the building still conveys the scale of the original complex, and carved details in stonework and brickwork hint at a once-refined interior.
Adjacent to the main palace building are the remains of the audience hall, where the king is believed to have received ministers and foreign envoys. Stone lion figures flank the entrance steps — a design motif that appears across several royal buildings in Polonnaruwa. Nearby, a bathing pool or royal tank associated with the palace precinct can also be identified within the archaeological zone.
How does the palace fit into the wider Polonnaruwa site?
Nissanka Malla's Palace forms part of the Royal Palace Group, the northernmost cluster of monuments within the Polonnaruwa Archaeological Reserve. This group also encompasses the earlier palace of Parakramabahu I — the king who unified the island and preceded Nissanka Malla — as well as the Council Chamber (Kumara Pokuna) and several smaller structures. Visiting all of them together takes around two hours on foot or bicycle, which is the most common way to navigate this flat, shaded area of the ancient city.
The entire city of Polonnaruwa forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Ancient City of Polonnaruwa, inscribed in 1982.
What is the historical context of the Polonnaruwa kingdom?
Polonnaruwa served as the capital of Sri Lanka from the 11th century until the early 14th century. The city lies on the left bank of the Mahaweli River, and its origins are at least as old as the earlier Anuradhapura period. Successive waves of South Indian influence — particularly from the Chola dynasty, which controlled the city before Vijayabahu I recaptured it around 1070 CE — left lasting marks on the urban fabric, including several Hindu temples that still stand alongside Buddhist shrines.
The kingdom reached its peak under Parakramabahu I (reigned 1153–1186 CE), who unified the three sub-kingdoms of the island, constructed the vast Parakrama Samudra reservoir, and transformed Polonnaruwa into a sophisticated urban centre. Nissanka Malla inherited this prosperous city and continued its architectural programme, though his reign was shorter and politically less stable than his predecessor's.
After Nissanka Malla's death, the kingdom entered a period of rapid decline. Invasions from the Pandyan kingdom and the prolonged rule of Kalinga Magha (1215–1236 CE) severely disrupted Sinhalese royal authority. By the late 13th century the population had drifted southward and westward, and Polonnaruwa was effectively abandoned, the seat of government eventually moving to Yapahuwa and then further south and west.
When is the best time to visit Nissanka Malla's Palace?
Polonnaruwa's dry zone climate makes the period from May to September and from December to February the most comfortable for exploration. Temperatures between roughly 27 °C and 32 °C are the norm, but the open archaeological site offers limited shade, so early morning visits — ideally before 9 am — make a significant difference in comfort.
The site can be visited year-round; the brief afternoon rains of the inter-monsoon season rarely disrupt a half-day tour. Weekday mornings are noticeably quieter than weekends or public holiday periods.
How do I get to Polonnaruwa from Colombo?
Polonnaruwa lies roughly 215 km northeast of Colombo. By road the journey takes around four to five hours depending on traffic; by train from Colombo Fort to Polonnaruwa station the ride is approximately five to six hours. Most visitors travelling independently hire a tuk-tuk or bicycle on arrival to cover the 3–4 km from the town centre to the main archaeological zone. Organised day trips from Dambulla, Sigiriya, or Habarana — all within about 50–65 km — are also popular.
What should I know before visiting the archaeological zone?
- A single combined ticket covers entry to all monuments in the Polonnaruwa Archaeological Reserve, including the Royal Palace Group. Purchase it at the Central Cultural Fund ticket office near the museum.
- Modest dress is expected near active religious sites within the reserve. Shoulders and knees should be covered.
- The site is open daily from approximately 7:30 am to 5:30 pm, though hours can vary slightly by season.
- Bicycles can be hired from shops near the main entrance; the flat terrain makes cycling a practical and enjoyable way to move between monument clusters.
- A licensed guide, bookable at the ticket office, adds considerable depth to a visit — the ruins can appear ambiguous without context, and good guides can reconstruct the palace's original scale vividly.
What else is worth seeing near the palace?
Within easy walking distance of the palace are the Parakramabahu Palace ruins and the impressive stone-carved Council Chamber, whose lion-footed columns are among the finest architectural details in Polonnaruwa. The Kiri Vehera Stupa — a well-preserved dagoba associated with Queen Subhadra — is a short cycle ride away in the southern quadrant. The Gal Vihara rock temple, with its colossal Buddha figures carved directly into granite, is considered the artistic highlight of the entire site and should not be missed on the same visit.
The Polonnaruwa Museum near the main entrance provides essential background and houses artefacts recovered from the excavations, including bronzes, ceramics, and inscribed stones.