Delft, Sri Lanka.

Delft is one of Sri Lanka's most quietly captivating islands — a place where barren plains, coral-stone fences and herds of wild horses conspire to create a landscape unlike anywhere else in the country. Known to its native inhabitants as Pas uthivu or Nedunthivu, meaning the island of cows, it was named Illha das Vaka by the Portuguese and later renamed Delft by the Dutch, after the town of Delft in the Netherlands. The island covers approximately 4,700 hectares and remains sparsely populated to this day.

Delft has emerged relatively unscathed from the conflict that once troubled this part of Sri Lanka, and it has held on to a charm that feels genuinely old. There are almost no vehicles on the island — aside from a single bus — and the most common way to explore it is from the trailer of a hired tractor, which can take visitors on a more detailed itinerary than the bus's single road allows.

A Landscape With Character

What immediately strikes visitors is the look of the settlements. Houses are fenced not with timber or wire but with coral stones piled up, or with palmyrah leaves, giving Delft a texture and appearance entirely its own. The island has a haunting beauty, made all the more vivid by the wild horses that roam its plains. These horses are believed to have been introduced by the Portuguese in the 1600s. By law they are forbidden from leaving the island, and their population is now in the lower hundreds.

Curiosities Worth Seeking Out

Beyond the horses, Delft holds a number of intriguing landmarks. Among them are the baobab tree — a species far more at home in Africa than in the northern Sri Lankan sea — the Quindah Tower, the wells of Sarapiddi, and the old stables that date from the island's earlier occupations. Each of these sites adds a layer to a place that rewards slow, curious exploration.

Getting There

The ferry to Delft departs from Kurikattuwan, on the southern tip of Pungudutivu, approximately a 45-minute drive by car from Jaffna. The crossing takes around one hour. Two ferry services run each day — one in the morning and one in the afternoon — though timetables are subject to significant changes depending on weather conditions and the state of the boats. It is strongly advisable to check the schedule before planning a visit.

When to Visit

The most pleasant season on Delft is probably July and August, after the roughest weather has passed but while there is still enough breeze to make the open plains comfortable. January and February are cooler, as they are across the northern island, though January can also be wet.