Behind the grand Ratnaprasada in Anuradhapura, tucked within the ruins of a structure most visitors walk straight past, lies what scholars consider the finest example of a sandakada pahana — the ornamental stone threshold carving that is one of the most distinctive achievements of ancient Sinhalese craftsmanship. Prof. Senarath Paranawithana, the archaeologist credited with systematically documenting Sri Lanka's ancient monuments, described it as the most exquisite moonstone found anywhere on the island — a distinction confirmed by the Department of Archaeology plaque installed at the site.
What is a sandakada pahana?
The word sandakada pahana (සඳකඩ පහන) translates literally as "moonstone lamp," though the object is a carved semi-circular stone slab, not a lamp. Placed at the foot of staircases and entrance thresholds, it served a symbolic function: guiding worshippers from the profane world into sacred space as they crossed into a temple or palace precinct.
A fully realised moonstone reads outward from the centre in concentric bands, each carrying its own iconographic meaning. The innermost ring is typically a lotus flower, representing purity. Moving outward, successive bands depict geese (hamsa), creepers, elephants, lions, horses, and bulls — each animal symbolising a stage on the journey from worldly existence toward enlightenment. Flames encircle the outermost edge, representing the boundary between the mortal realm and the sacred interior.
Scholars note that the Anuradhapura-period moonstones generally show all four animals in the processional band, while later examples — from Polonnaruwa onwards — often omit the bull and, in some cases, reduce the composition further. The Mahasen Maligaya moonstone retains the full, classical Anuradhapura vocabulary in exceptional condition.
Where exactly is the Mahasen Maligaya moonstone?
The site sits within the ruins of a building known as Mahasen Maligaya (also rendered as Mahasena Maligawa), a structure associated with the reign of King Mahasen in the third century CE. It stands immediately behind the Ratnaprasada — the "Palace of Gems" — in the northern part of the Anuradhapura sacred city.
Unlike the more widely visited Biso Maligaya moonstone, which draws steady crowds of pilgrims and tourists, Mahasen Maligaya receives relatively few visitors. There is no prominent footpath leading to it, and the surrounding area is partly overgrown. Visitors who know to look for it are rewarded with almost uninterrupted time at what is arguably the finest piece of decorative stonework in the entire ancient city.
How does this moonstone compare to others in Anuradhapura?
Anuradhapura contains several celebrated moonstones. The most frequently photographed is the one at Biso Maligaya, set in front of the Mahasen Maligawa (a separate structure from Mahasen Maligaya — the naming overlap causes some confusion). The Biso Maligaya moonstone is large, well-preserved, and set behind a protective railing that allows close inspection.
| Moonstone | Location | Visitor Traffic | Notable Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mahasen Maligaya | Behind Ratnaprasada | Very low | Rated finest in Sri Lanka by Prof. Paranawithana |
| Biso Maligaya | Northern Anuradhapura | High | Well-known; inspires most modern reproductions |
| Thuparamaya | Thuparamaya complex | Moderate | Among the earliest surviving examples |
The Mahasen Maligaya example is distinguished by the precision and depth of its carving. Even after more than 1,700 years of exposure, the animal procession and floral bands retain a clarity that suggests both exceptional craftsmanship and durable stone selection.
How did sandakada pahana design evolve over time?
The sandakada pahana first appeared in the later phases of the Anuradhapura period, roughly between the third and tenth centuries CE. As political power shifted south and then to the Polonnaruwa kingdom, the iconographic programme began to simplify. The bull disappeared from the animal band — an omission that some scholars attribute to increasing Hindu influence, since the bull carries Shaivite associations that may have been consciously edited out of a Buddhist context.
By the Gampola and Kandyan periods, the moonstone had become a more formalised architectural motif, present in temple entrances across the island but increasingly stylised and less narratively rich than its Anuradhapura predecessors. Contemporary craftsmen still reproduce the design in granite and marble at religious sites, though few replicate the full classical composition with all four animals.
What else is worth seeing near Mahasen Maligaya?
The Ratnaprasada itself is worth careful attention before or after visiting the moonstone. Dated to around the eighth century CE, it is considered one of the finest examples of a guardstone pairing in Sri Lanka — the two doorway figures, each holding a vase of abundance, are among the most photographed sculptures in Anuradhapura. The adjacent moat, stone pathways, and secondary shrines make the broader compound a rewarding place to spend an unhurried morning.
Within walking distance, the Abhayagiri Monastery complex — a UNESCO World Heritage site — contains further moonstones, guardstones, and one of the largest dagobas on the island. Visitors combining Mahasen Maligaya with Abhayagiri and the Jetavanaramaya can cover three of Anuradhapura's most significant concentrations of decorative stonework in a single day.
When is the best time to visit Anuradhapura?
The dry season between May and September offers the most comfortable daytime temperatures and minimal rain in the North Central Province. The site is open year-round, and early mornings — before 9 a.m. — are significantly cooler and less crowded than midday visits. Poya (full moon) days draw large numbers of Sri Lankan pilgrims to the sacred city's shrines, which adds atmosphere but can slow movement around the more popular monuments.
How do I get to Anuradhapura from Colombo?
Anuradhapura lies roughly 200 km north of Colombo. The most comfortable option for independent travellers is a private vehicle, which takes around four hours depending on traffic. Intercity express trains from Colombo Fort to Anuradhapura run several times daily and take approximately three to four hours; the station is about four kilometres from the sacred city precinct, and a tuk-tuk or taxi covers that final stretch easily. Buses are frequent but considerably slower.
