Bonnieland Bungalow, Badulla, Sri Lanka

Bonnieland has a story as charming as the cottage itself. An Oxford-educated Ceylonese gentleman, Mr Selviah, was trekking through the hills with his Irish sweetheart Bonnie when he stopped to catch his breath, stumbled upon this remarkable spot, and promptly named it after her. The dressed stone cottage he discovered here was built in 1908 and still stands rock solid, overlooking Badulla town.

Today Bonnieland is the holiday home of Mr and Mrs De Mel, and it receives guests with the warmth of a private residence rather than the formality of a hotel. Set on the crest of a hill, the property commands sweeping views of the Mounts of Namunukula — nine peaks — and the twinkling lights of Badulla town below, while a mahogany tree-lined driveway leads through a further 17 acres of coffee, spices and mahogany.

The Gardens and Setting

Bridle paths wind through the lower and upper gardens, offering excellent morning exercise against a backdrop of scenic mountain views. The gardens are so richly planted they practically urge a reach for a botanical textbook. Breakfast tea on the front pavilion reveals overhanging passion fruits and flowers growing beside a beautiful Pride of Burma tree. Badulla is said to offer some of the hottest climate and cleanest air in the region, making it a peaceful setting in which to relax and recharge. Easy walks, ancient temples, living monasteries and tea estates are all close by.

The Living Spaces

Three sitting rooms filled with old Panama hats, stag heads and Burmese silk tapestries vie for attention from the moment a guest arrives. The three living areas — a tower room, a study library and a TV lounge — each offer a different mood, while board games, bridge and many books provide constant entertainment. Polished floors, pretty fabrics and ancestral furniture form an attractive backdrop to the family memorabilia and portraits tucked into every nook and cranny.

The Bedrooms

Three bedrooms, simply decorated in colonial style with an emphasis on informality and comfort, each look out onto either the Mounts of Namunukula or Badulla town, and each has a private or semi-attached shower room. The rooms have no fan or nets, but the climate is cool in the evenings and does not attract mosquitoes.

• Yellow Suite: Two single beds with floral bedspreads lead through an archway to a summer room with a third single bed. Bay windows open onto landscaped gardens of wild ginger trees and rock gardens.
• Pink Triple: An Old English-style twin bedroom with soft pink furnishings and wonderful views over the town and misty mountains. A third antique brass single bed suits young children, and the bathroom is opposite.
• Blue Twin: A cosy room with a double bed, morning sunshine and superb views of the tropical gardens and mountains beyond. The bathroom is adjacent.

The bungalow accommodates up to six people, making it a particularly fine retreat for retired couples, bird lovers or gardeners — who are, one often finds, all three.

Food and Hospitality

The loyal housekeeper and chef mingle with guests in the manner of a natural home environment. Sinnika, native to Finland and a planter's wife of over 30 years, visits and brings a warm understanding of the countryside. The chef, who has served the De Mels and Bonnieland for many years, specialises in traditional Sri Lankan dishes but has also been trained in many Western dishes. Fresh fish is bought daily from East Coast fisheries. Standout dishes include chicken in mango with cinnamon rice, and the curd served with fresh passion fruit makes a perfect ending to any meal.

A spacious dining table seats eight comfortably, with an extension for twelve, though al fresco dining on the breakfast terrace is a favoured alternative. Half board, full board and overnight bed-and-breakfast stays can all be accommodated. Breakfast is generally fruit, eggs and tea, unless a Sri Lankan breakfast is ordered the day before. Long-staying guests are advised to order wines in advance, as only a small selection of spirits and soft drinks is stocked at the bungalow; guests are welcome to bring their own duty-free supplies.