Natha Devale stands quietly at the heart of Kandy's sacred precinct, making it one of the oldest surviving religious monuments in the city — and arguably one of the least-examined by visitors who rush past on their way to the Temple of the Tooth. That relative obscurity is precisely what makes it worth seeking out. Built during the Gampola period and refined under Kandyan-era patronage, this compact shrine carries more than six centuries of layered religious history within its carved stone walls.
What is Natha Devale and why is it significant?
A devale is a Sri Lankan shrine dedicated to a deity, distinct from a Buddhist temple (viharaya), though in Sri Lankan practice the two traditions coexist comfortably side by side. Natha Devale is consecrated to Natha — identified in Mahayana Buddhist tradition as the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara and, in later Theravada synthesis, associated with the future Buddha Maitreya. This dual identity gives the shrine a rare theological depth: it is venerated by both Mahayana-influenced Buddhists and those within the Theravada mainstream.
Architectural historians consider the devale one of the earliest stone structures still standing in Kandy, predating the city's ascension as the last royal capital of Sri Lanka. Its gedige-style mandapa (pillared hall) and the tiered roof above the inner sanctum reflect design influences that link Kandyan religious architecture to South Indian temple traditions, filtered through centuries of local adaptation.
Where exactly is Natha Devale located?
The shrine sits within the sacred square (maligawa precinct) in central Kandy, immediately adjacent to the Sri Dalada Maligawa — the Temple of the Tooth Relic. Visitors approaching the Tooth Temple from Kandy Lake will pass the devale almost inevitably. It occupies a walled compound with a distinctive white-washed entrance gate, set slightly back from the main processional street. A Kandy city tour will typically pass through this precinct.
What can visitors see at Natha Devale?
The compound contains several distinct elements worth examining closely:
- The main shrine building (gedige): The inner sanctum houses an image of Natha, draped in offerings. The carved stone doorway features detailed floral and mythological motifs consistent with late medieval Kandyan craftsmanship.
- The moonstone: A carved semi-circular moonstone at the entrance threshold displays the concentric bands — flame, swan, scroll, lotus — characteristic of Sinhalese Buddhist artistic tradition, though slightly simpler in execution than the celebrated moonstones of Polonnaruwa.
- The bo tree enclosure: A sacred Bo tree (Ficus religiosa) grows within the compound, garlanded with prayer flags and devotional offerings left by worshippers.
- Ancillary shrines: Smaller subsidiary shrines within the walled compound are dedicated to other deities associated with the Kandyan pantheon.
- The drum hall (hewisi maduwa): A raised pavilion from which ceremonial drumming accompanies rituals, particularly during the Esala season.
How does Natha Devale connect to the Esala Perahera?
Natha Devale is one of four devales — alongside those of Vishnu, Skanda (Kataragama), and Pattini — whose deities participate in the Esala Perahera Festival, Kandy's grand annual procession held each July and August. During the festival, the Natha Devale contributes its own randoli (palanquin) procession, with elaborately costumed attendants and Kandyan drummers forming a distinct section of the larger parade. For visitors who witness the Perahera, understanding which devale each procession represents adds considerable meaning to the spectacle.
What is the religious practice at the shrine today?
Natha Devale remains an active place of worship, not merely a heritage monument. Devotees visit daily to present offerings — flowers, incense, coconut oil lamps — and to request blessings from the deity. Ritual timing follows a traditional schedule, with the chief kapurala (lay officiant) conducting ceremonies at set hours. Visitors are welcome to observe respectfully, but photography inside the inner sanctum should be approached with deference to any instructions posted at the entrance.
The coexistence of Buddhist and Hindu devotional elements here reflects a long-standing characteristic of Sri Lankan popular religion: the same household may light a lamp at a Buddhist temple in the morning and present an offering at a devale in the evening, without any perceived contradiction.
When is the best time to visit Natha Devale?
The shrine is accessible year-round. Early morning visits — typically before 9 a.m. — offer a quieter atmosphere and the chance to observe the opening rituals. Visiting during the Esala Perahera season (July–August) provides context for the festival processions that originate partly from this compound, though Kandy itself becomes considerably busier during that period. Avoid major poya (full-moon) days if you prefer quieter crowds; conversely, those days offer the most active devotional atmosphere if that is what you seek.
How do I get to Natha Devale from Colombo?
Kandy is roughly 115 kilometres from Colombo, typically around three hours by road depending on traffic. The Colombo–Badulla expressway section reduces travel time noticeably. By train, the Colombo Fort–Kandy line runs several departures daily and is a scenic option. From Kandy town centre, Natha Devale is within easy walking distance of the central bus stand and the railway station — approximately 15 minutes on foot through the market area toward the lake.
What should visitors know before arriving?
- Modest dress is expected: shoulders and knees covered. Remove footwear before entering the shrine compound.
- There is no fixed entry fee for the devale itself, unlike the nearby Sri Dalada Maligawa which charges a separate admission for foreign visitors.
- Flash photography and loud conversation near active rituals are considered disrespectful.
- The shrine is managed by the Diyawadana Nilame's office (which also oversees the Temple of the Tooth precinct), so any changes to access are coordinated through that authority.
- Combine the visit with the nearby Kandy Tourist Information Center to pick up maps and context for the wider sacred precinct before entering.
How does Natha Devale compare to other historic shrines in Sri Lanka?
Sri Lanka's ancient religious landscape includes the devales of Polonnaruwa, which predate the Kandyan shrines by several centuries, as well as the Vishnu and Kataragama devales within Kandy's own sacred square. What distinguishes Natha Devale is its survival in something close to its medieval form, its continued active use, and the intellectual complexity of the Natha deity himself — a figure who bridges Mahayana and Theravada traditions in ways that mirror Sri Lanka's own syncretic religious history. Scholars of South Asian religion regard it as a rare surviving example of how Mahayana influence persisted within a predominantly Theravada context long after the Polonnaruwa period.
