Sense of Heritage -- Colombo to Kandy by Train

Few rail journeys in Sri Lanka carry as much history as the Main Line from Colombo to Kandy. First opened in 1867 — a full 25 years after it was originally discussed in 1842 — the line was built to allow planters to transport their coffee production down to Colombo. Today, passengers travel the very same route that their great-grandparents once took to reach the hill capital of Sri Lanka.

At the heart of this particular journey is the Viceroy Special, a vintage train that blends Edwardian splendour with modern luxury. It has captured the imagination of train enthusiasts and fans alike, threading its way through majestic scenery and remarkable feats of engineering. Luxury seating and dining at the table ensure that not a single minute of the spectacular views is missed.

Leaving Colombo

The journey begins at Fort Railway Station, a landmark of colonial architecture in the heart of the city. The train moves through Maradana Hub Station, passing Beira Lake and a beautiful Hindu Kovil before reaching Dematagoda station. Beyond Dematagoda, it crosses an 800-foot-long main bridge over the Kelani River, marking the point where the city gives way to its suburbs. Slums and crowded residential areas line the tracks before the train arrives at Ragama, 9 miles from Colombo — the first railway junction on the route, where the northern and main railway lines meet.

Into the Countryside

From Ragama, the character of the journey changes entirely. For a stretch of approximately 30 km, the train passes through paddy and coconut cultivations set among sleepy villages and small towns. As the train approaches Mirigama station, mid-range hills begin to appear on the horizon, signalling the gradual rise in elevation to come. Shortly after, the train passes through the first tunnel on the Main Line — 274 feet long — before arriving at Ambepussa station, 54 km from Colombo. Ambepussa holds a quiet distinction: it was the terminus of the very first train destination in 1864, and the old station building is still visible beside the track.

Towards the Hill Country

The line continues through moderate gradients, crossing the bridge over the Maa Oya River and running along its bank until it reaches Polgahawela, the second railway junction, where the northern railway line joins the main. The next significant stop is Rambukkana, 52 miles from Colombo, which is notable for two reasons. It is the gateway to a major climb that raises the railway line from 313 feet to a height of 1,698 feet over a distance of 13 miles, ultimately reaching Kadugannawa. Rambukkana also serves as the transit point for visitors heading to Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, which is known for housing the largest number of elephants in captivity.

This climb through the hills, past engineering marvels and lush scenery, is the culmination of a journey that connects Sri Lanka's colonial past to its living present — all the way to the World Heritage City of Kandy.