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The capital of the southern province is a city with a colourful history. UNESCO declared World Heritage Site the magnificent Dutch fort is the most popular attraction of the town. 300 year old Dutch atmosphere is still very much alive around the fort and amidst its many historical buildings not invaded by the skyscrapers. The beautiful beach of Unawatuna is just 6km south east of the city centre.
The southern coastal belt is the most popular among the tourists and comes to life mainly from October through April when the monsoon moves northeast and the sea becomes calm with blue skies. The earliest European administrative centre of Sri Lanka was the major port and the largest city until the British shifted the port to Colombo. The City of Galle had been the European administrative centre over 4 centuries.
Galle, the main city and port on the south coast, retains a romantic, old-world atmosphere within its Dutch fort. In fact, Galle is considered to be Sri Lanka’s most historically interesting city still functioning. It began to assume importance after a Portuguese fleet arrived accidentally in 1505. The story goes that on hearing a cock (gallus in Portuguese) crowing on their arrival, the Portuguese gave the town its name. More likely is that Galle derives it name from the Sinhala, gala, meaning a rock. Indeed, the harbour is strewn with rocks, some above but many below the water, a factor that made it quite dangerous for shipping in earlier times. Nevertheless, until the construction of breakwaters at the Colombo port was completed in 1875, Galle remained the island’s major port.
A stroll around the fort walls in the cool of the early evening is one of the most enjoyable ways to end the day at Galle. It is possible to circumnavigate the fort in an hour or so, and you only have to deviate from the walls once. Most visitors enter the fort through the Main Gate, which was cut by the British in 1873 into the finest section of the Dutch fortification known as Sea Bastion. This bastion overlooks the wide expanse of the esplanade, a former racecourse, which now features a cricket ground with test match status.
A much more interesting passage into the fort, however, is through the Old Gate. The British coat of arms tops the exterior of the entrance, while the interior has the letters VOC, which stands for ‘Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie’, or the Dutch East India Company. These letters are flanked by two lions and topped by a cock, and bear the date 1669. Just beyond the gate is the Zwart Bastion or Black Fort, which is believed to be oldest of the fortifications and site of the original Portuguese citadel.
The Utrecht Bastion features the lighthouse, which dates from British times (there was an earlier British lighthouse that was destroyed by fire). Between the Utrecht and Triton Bastions there is a rocky point called by the Dutch, Flag Rock, and close to it is Pigeon Island on which the Dutch had their signal post. On the Triton Bastion there used to be a windmill that drew up seawater to be sprayed from carts to keep the dust down on the city streets. A series of other bastions are encountered, as well as the tomb of a Muslim saint, before you arrive back at your starting point.
Most of the older buildings within the fort date from the Dutch era and many of streets still bear theirDutch names or are direct translations. The Dutch Groote Kerk, or Great Church, originally built in 1640, was the first Protestant church to be established in Sri Lanka. However, the present church dates from 1755. The interred remains of the Dutch were moved here in 1853, which is why the floor is paved with gravestones, and why there are coats-of-arms covering the walls. The old bell tower stands opposite the church.
Close to the Groote Kerk is a hostelry that dates back to the colonial era. The New Oriental Hotel was built in 1684 as the Dutch command headquarters, and later served as quarters for British troops. In 1865 it was converted to a hotel during the time the port was at its zenith, when hundreds of passengers sought accommodation every day. |